Ever since Geyser Peak Winery in Northern Sonoma County imported Aussie winemaker Daryl Groom, the winery's image, quality and fortunes have gone steadily upward. Groom has earned the respect of not only critics and consumers, but that of his peers. In little more than a decade he has come to be thought of as one of a handful of great California winemakers.

    Another area where Groom excels is a wine competitions, though he would be the first to tell you that he can't take all the credit. To my knowledge, Geyser Peak is the only winery in the world with a bonus program for every employee based on numbers of medals won at wine shows.

    That's right...at the end of every year, every single winery employee (not just the winemaking staff) receives a share of a bonus based on competition performance. Management kicks in so much for a bronze medal, more for a silver, and more yet for a gold. Special awards like double-golds or "best of show" honors fatten the pot even more. Groom believes this incentive motivates everyone from the viticulturists, to cellar workers, bottling line employees, even the hospitality people, to do their very best. That's why he always shares the credit.

    For most of the past decade, Geyser Peak has been one of the top three medal winning wineries of the year.

    As many good years as Groom and Geyser Peak have had, 1999 looks like it has to be the best ever, and there's still a few competitions to go.

    For the first time in the history of London's International Wine & Spirits Competition, one of the largest in the world, Daryl Groom was named Winemaker of the Year for the second time, based on the performance of his winery. No winemaker had ever before been named twice. To make the victory twice as sweet, Groom did it in two consecutive years. That's right...he did it in 1998 too.

    At the end of 1998 this column named the 1997 Geyser Peak Sauvignon Blanc "White Wine of the Year" and gave it 100 points. Then the 1998 was named "Best Sauvignon Blanc" at the New World International in February of this year.

    With all the other gold medals and special honors won so far in 1999, it's as much acclamation as any one winery has ever received in a single year of judging. Then lightning struck again.

    At a special awards event on July 27, the California State Fair announced a string of gold, silver and bronze medals for Geyser Peak, and named it "Winery of the Year"...for the second consecutive year. Once again, no winery had ever received the honor twice, so two years in a row was totally unprecedented.

    Somehow I don't think management will mind a bit paying what will almost certainly be the largest competition incentive bonus in its history.

    Geyser Peak 1997 "Sonoma" Chardonnay ($12) Exceptional wine for the price. Lovely smoky vanilla aromatics. Ripe apple and tropical fruit enrobed in more vanilla, with smoky, toasty, barrel-char after flavors. Case purchases highly recommended. Rating: 90/94

    Geyser Peak 1996 "Sonoma" Zinfandel ($14) Big ripe plum, headed toward prune, aroma. Just avoids overripeness. Flavor is more ripe plum with a hint of something tar-like and complex. Match with a blackened steak or pork chop or maybe a piece of venison loin. Rating: 87/85

    Geyser Peak 1996 "Alexander Valley Reserve" Cabernet Sauvignon ($32) Big blackberry and black cherry aromas and flavors with some pleasant smoky complexity. Very concentrated and intense. Will improve with ten or more years cellaring. But if you're drinking it tonight...save $20 and drink the "Sonoma" version. Rating: 92/82

    Geyser Peak 1996 "Reserve Alexandre" Meritage Red ($42) A blend of five top Bordeaux varieties, Cabernet, Merlot, etc., in a very elegant style, French oak-aged and very complex. Smoky, toasty barrel charcoal bouquet and taste along with black cherry and cassis fruit. Very concentrated and intense but with very round, approachable tannins. Enjoy it now or in 2015. Rating: 95/84

    Geyser Peak 1996 "Sonoma Reserve" Shiraz ($32) Shiraz is the synonym for Syrah preferred by Australians. All about plum and smoke. A powerful ripe mouthfeel, no harsh tannins but plenty of backbone. Nice with a rack of lamb or a blackened salmon. Rating: 92/84

BEST BUY
WHITE WINE OF THE WEEK

    Geyser Peak 1998 "Sonoma" Sauvignon Blanc ($9) Lemon grass, grapefruit and a hint of gooseberry. Great fruit throughout; very dry perception. A great oyster wine or companion to fishes in lemony sauces. Tons of gold medals and sweepstakes already. Rating: 98/95

BEST BUY
RED WINE OF THE WEEK

    Geyser Peak 1996 "Sonoma" Cabernet Sauvignon ($15) A ripe, bold mouthful of black fruit flavors, mostly blackberry and black currant. Round,inoffensive tannins; long, pleasant, fruit-tinged aftertaste. Rating: 90/94

COLLECTABLE WINE OF THE WEEK

    Geyser Peak 1997 "100 Years Old Vines" Zinfandel ($25) Just being released, there's only a little over 700 cases of this jewel and your best chance of finding it is at the winery's tasting room. This is great Zinfandel! Ripe plum and boysenberry fruit. Beautifully balanced and structured; velvety mouthfeel; rock solid spine; no awareness of the 15 1/2 percent alcohol. The label does not tell all the story. The vines are closer to 150 years old and shame on Groom (or his marketing people) for hiding the proud Cucamonga Valley appellation on the back label. Cucamonga, near Los Angeles,  is one of the oldest growing regions in the New World and is in the midst of a major revival. If you love Zin, don't miss this big boy. Rating: 96/85

    Geyser Peak wines have broad national distribution, but certain Reserve and vineyard designated wines will be hard to find in some markets. For more information: (800) 945-4447.

Subscription Information

Wines are scored using a unique 100 point system. First number rates quality; second number rates value.