The Orange County Fair Commercial Wine Competition is now in its 23rd year and is by far the largest all-California judging anywhere.

    Still one of the best guides to California wine buying, one must look at the results differently than in the early years of the competition. For about the past five years, the total medal count has climbed, while the gold medal count has become much smaller. Since California wines seem to be improving every year, and there have been a record number of exceptional vintages in the past decade, one can only assume the arbiters of the medals became more stingy.

   There's also appears to be discrimination against varieties lacking snob appeal. No gold medals for White Zinfandel, one of the nation's most popular wine types. And no gold for varietal roses, despite the fact that several wines entered at OC have won golds and better at numerous other shows. Less fashionable varieties like Semillon, Pinot Blanc, Sherry, Gamay and others were virtually ignored.

    Since space limits our report to only a few categories, you should really order the 140 page official results by sending $7 (includes postage) to: OC Wine Winners, Box 1598, Carson City, NV 89702 (800) 845-9463. And do pay attention to the bronze and silver medalists.

    OC was the first competition to judge in price category, thereby informing consumers of the best wines in the price range in which they usually shop. At many other competitions, $10 value wines are forced to compete against $50 and $100 Reserve quality wines.

    Cabernet Sauvignon is one of the classes where the judges tended to be stingy. Of more than 50 Cabernets priced up to $10, a single gold to: Peirano Estate 1997 "Lodi."

    Out of nearly 90 Cabernets priced $10.01 to $16, another single gold medal to: J. Lohr 1997 "Paso Robles-Seven Oaks."

    The percentage wasn't much better for Cabernets priced $16.01 to $28, with a total of three gold medals out of 118 entries: Chateau St. Jean 1995 "Sonoma-Cinq Cepages"; Greenwood Ridge 1996 "Mendocino" and Venezia 1996 "Alexander Valley-Meola Vineyard."

    At $28.01 and up, five top medals were awarded out of 65 entries: A 4-Star Gold (signifies a virtual unanimous vote for gold by the judges) went to Chateau St. Jean 1994 "Sonoma County-Reserve."

    The remaining golds were: Geyser Peak 1995 "Alexander Valley-Reserve"; Guenoc 1995 "Napa-Bella Vista Vineyard-Reserve"; Staglin Family Vineyard 1996 "Rutherford-Napa Valley" and ZD 1996 "Napa Valley."

    The most available of all the Cabernet Sauvignon golds is the J. Lohr Seven Oaks wine.

    I hate to sound like a broken record, but the gold count for Chardonnay was once again downright stingy. Out of 75 Chardonnays priced over $23.01...presumably some of the best  in America and the world...not a single gold medal!

    In the up to $10 price range, and out of 103 entries, only three golds: Monthaven 1997 "Napa"; Mountain View 1997 "Monterey" and Trellis 1997 "Sonoma-Russian River."

    And again only four golds out of 155 entries in the $10.01 to $16 price range: Clos Du Bois 1998 "Sonoma"; Maddalena 1996 "Central Coast Reserve"; Meridian 1997 "Edna Valley Reserve" and St. Supery 1997 "Napa."

    St. Supery had best be giving its new Aussie winemaker a raise. After years of being mostly an also-ran, the Napa winery has become an overnight competition darling, winning medals at a broad spectrum of competitions.

    Coming into the high price goods at $16.01 to $23, still only three golds out of 116 entries: Cale 1997 "Carneros-Sangiacomo"; Gallo Sonoma 1996 "Dry Creek Valley-Stefani Vineyard and Geyser Peak 1997 "Alexander Valley Reserve."     More results in future columns.

   

TELL-ALL BOOK

  There is this new book called The Wrath of Grapes by Lewis Perdue ($13.50 paperback) that has some folks in the wine industry very upset. Perdue was founder of the newsletter, Wine Business Insider and has been both an importer and wholesaler, so he is an insider.

    In 250 pages Perdue exposes much of the underbelly of an industry usually viewed as much as art and high society as the agriculture and marketing it really is.

    If you've ever considered investing in wine, wineries or vineyards, please read this book first.

    If you've ever wondered why some wines cost $5 and some cost $100, when they're both made from the same grape variety, read this book.

    Want to know why you can't ship a bottle of wine to cousin Fred in Florida, but you could send him a firearm?     You thought Prohibition was repealed in 1933? Read this book.

    Why do Americans drink only a fraction of the wine per capita that Europeans, South Americans and Australians do? This book will explain it.

    Are wine prices about to go up or down? The answer is here.

    To quote Perdue about his own book: "...you'll travel over vast expanses of international intrigue and back-stabbing, envy, lust, gluttony, greed, sloth, pride, wrath, blood feuds, sharp business practices, fraud, felony, deceit, high finance, low-dealing...and ego-trips."

    It is not a perfect book. In my opinion he blames too many ills on a couple of large wineries, but his expose of the $4 billion dollar disaster caused by the University of California and the resulting attempt to cover it up, is right on target. Any flaws in the book are more than compensated for by its virtues.

    If your local book store or wine shop doesn't have it, it can be ordered through Wine Trader Book Services (800) 845-9463.

WINE OF THE WEEK

    Lambert Bridge 1996 "Sonoma" Merlot ($20) This wine is an interesting blend of 78 percent Merlot, 12 percent Cabernet Sauvignon and the balance equal parts of Cabernet Franc and Petite Sirah. Deep, rich, black cherry and cassis fruit. As much flavor and complexity as a Cabernet, but with the supple mouthfeel we all expect from Merlot. Ends with earthy-truffley complexity. Winery phone number is (707) 431-9600. Rating: 94/85

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Wines are scored using a unique 100 point system. First number rates quality; second number rates value.