Writing an obituary for Louis P. Martini last year was a sad duty. Tasting wines with his son Michael recently was a great pleasure. Other than physical size, both well over six foot, the only thing they seemed to have in common was making really good wine.

    Louis was a quiet and gentle man, and one of California's few Italian winemaking patriarchs to turn over the reins to his children without a feud or fight. While Louis stayed active in the family business until the end as Chairman of the Board, he had placed daughter Carolyn in charge of administration and made Mike winemaker many years ago.

    Michael, on the other hand, has the demeanor of a football player, laughs loud and raucously, plays in a jumpin' blues band made up of fellow vintners and is as at home in a beer garden as at a fancy wine tasting.

    The Napa Valley winery was founded a few years after Repeal of Prohibition by Louis M. Martini, who I never had the pleasure of meeting. Martini has always been best known for its red wines which have continued to surprise connoisseurs with their ability to age for decades when they are so drinkable at release.

    And while the winery is located in St. Helena in Napa Valley, the family has always owned extensive vineyards in Sonoma County in addition to their Napa holdings.

    Louis Martini 1996 "Russian River Reserve" Chardonnay ($18) One hundred percent barrel fermented in all French oak. Mostly apple fruit with some delicate pear notes and lots of French oak vanillin from bouquet to aftertaste. Rich in flavor but still crisp in acidity. Rating: 88/88

    Louis Martini 1997 "Dunnigan Hills" Sangiovese ($12) Call this one a "Best Buy." Light but not wimpy; for those who like easy-to-drink Pinot Noirs and Merlots. Mostly cherry fruit but with some earthy complexity already developing. Rating: 88/92

    Louis Martini 1995 "Russian River Reserve" Merlot ($18) Martini was the first California winery to release a wine labeled Merlot, but what a change in style from that first one more than 25 years ago. It was really light, almost thin. This one is a big bold mouthful of black cherry with a bit of cherrystone bitterness, a still supple mouthfeel and long after-flavors. Rating: 90/92

    Louis Martini 1995 "Napa Reserve" Cabernet Sauvignon ($18) Big berry, cassis, a little plum and cherry and a hint of pleasant green olive bitterness. You can enjoy this one now, but it's worthy of a decade or more of cellaring. Rating: 90/90

    Sweet Caroline by Louis Martini ($18) A blend of Gewurztraminer, Muscat, Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon yields a very fruity and somewhat sweet white wine. Tasted blind you'd guess Gewurz. The underlying Muscat fruitiness is also detectable. The Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc contribute to the structure and feel but little identifiable taste. It's a great package that will look really pretty on the table at wedding receptions or showers, with its white frosted bottle, a die-cut, white lace looking label with silver on white lettering. The wine is tasty, but pricey for what it is. Rating: 86/79

    Louis Martini wines have good national distribution, with the reserve wines reviewed here today a little more difficult to find than the "regular" releases. For information on nearest retail outlet: Louis Martini, Box 112, St. Helena, CA 94574 (707) 963-2736.

CELLAR SELECTION
WINE OF THE WEEK

    Louis Martini 1996 "Sonoma Gnarly Vines" Zinfandel ($35) Only 600 cases of this wonderful red wine from 115 year old, dry-farmed, head-pruned vines. Huge, intensely flavored with ripe berry and plum and spicy, hint of black pepper, complexity. Very elegantly structured with a long finish that's as delicious as the wine itself. Note: This is not one of those overripe monsters. There are no prunes, no raisins nor any high alcohol problems. It's the best Zin I've tasted this year. Rating: 100/86

   

NEW NAPA BRAND

  From the same folks who bring you the Dunnewood wines (Mendocino County), but from vineyards in Napa Valley. Via Firenze is the brand, and it comes to market with an old world looking label that gives the overall impression of being Italian. Since several of the wines produced are from Italian origin grape varieties, it makes some kind of sense.

    Via Firenze 1995 "Napa" Dolcetto ($14) While it doesn't taste much like the Italian versions, it is a tasty red wine. Mostly plum fruit with a kind of perfumey nuance. Full flavored and ripe; a wine that will cut through garlic and tomato sauce. Rating: 88/86

    Via Firenze 1994 "Napa" Nobella ($18) Actually a Meritage type red, a blend of 87 percent Cabernet Sauvignon; 8 percent Merlot; 4 percent Petit Verdot and just a smidgen of Cabernet Franc. At age five it is coming together nicely. Flavors of black cherry, cassis and green olive that continue to build throughout the taste experience. Very nice with a lamb chop or a New York steak. Rating: 89/85

BEST BUY
WINE OF THE WEEK

    Via Firenze 1994 "Napa" Charbono ($14) Another California mystery grape, one theory being that it's a particular clone of Dolcetto from Italy, or a nearly extinct French variety called Charbonneau (also believed to be related to Dolcetto). Inglenook Napa Valley was the most famous producer of the wine, and in fact the grapes for this one come from an old Inglenook vineyard. Most other producers have given up on it and many of the vineyards have been replanted to more popular varieties. This is a wonderful example. Big, bold, very serious red wine. Plum and blackberry flavors with lots of earthy complexity. Intense and concentrated, it's structured for cellaring for 10-20 years, but you can enjoy it now with strongly flavored foods. Case purchases highly recommended. Rating: 94/96.

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Wines are scored using a unique 100 point system. First number rates quality; second number rates value.