Chateau St. Jean's not-so-new winemaker is settling in and showing his stuff. The new whites are his and the reds and reserve whites have been subject to his cellaring and blending. Steve Reeder is making the Chateau his domain.

    Chateau St. Jean 1997 "Belle Terre" Chardonnay ($24) Highly aromatic and with big flavor that builds in intensity from first sip all the way to the end. Citrus fruit and smoky complexity are pleasant. My complaint? It's a little over the top for me. Can a wine have too much flavor? Rating: 89/84

    Chateau St. Jean 1996 "Robert Young" Chardonnay ($24) Still the dominant player of the St. Jean Chardonnay team. Perfect balance of fruit, intensity and wood. Apple fruit dominates. Toasty, smoky oak not overdone. Very long finish; ends crisply. A classic. Rating 94/86

    Chateau St. Jean 1997 "Estate" Viognier ($30) The winery's first commercially available Viognier; at the tasting room only on May 1. Imagine Gewurztraminer with an orange tinge instead of grapefruit. Floral but not perfumey. Dry, but very fruity with pleasant spicy notes. An excellent example of the variety. Rating: 94/80

    Chateau St. Jean 1997 "Sonoma" Pinot Noir ($18) Medium to full bodied style; black cherry and plum fruit; smoked tea and faded rose complexity. Rating: 89/85

    Chateau St. Jean 1995 "Cinq Cepages" Cabernet Sauvignon ($25) Big berry fruit with a little plum. Some new barrel nuance. Feels good in the mouth. Enjoyable now, but a 10 year-plus keeper. Rating: 91/84

    Chateau St. Jean 1994 "Reserve" Merlot ($60) This is not your mother's Merlot. This is a huge, very highly extracted, concentrated wine that manages to remain elegant. Black cherry fruit with heavy toast, barrel char complexity. Very long finish. Winner of a gold medal and best of price class award at the New World International. Rating: 94/80

    Chateau St. Jean 1994 "Reserve" Cabernet Sauvignon ($60) Over the top! Too much for me. But don't let that stop you if you like them really big. It's a very bold,  almost chewy red wine with ripe black cherry and cassis flavors. Distinctive new oak character. Rating: 90/80

    Chateau St. Jean 1995 "Special Select Late Harvest" Johannisberg Riesling ($25 the half bottle) Hand picked, Botrytis cinerea (the noble mold that concentrates sugar and contributes honeyed complexity) affected and that compares with German wines labeled Trockenbeerenauslese that often cost even more. Exotic fruit salad of a wine with a hint of spice (clove?). Apricot, dried orange peel, apricot, peach and honey, with a little of that classic Germanic mineral quality. Flavor lingers long after the final sip and this is a wine that will improve with age for decades. It may seem expensive, but "a little dab will do ya." The wine is so sweet, so intense that an ounce and a half is plenty, which means the half bottle size will easily serve six to eight people. Rating: 98/88

BEST BUY
WINE OF THE WEEK

    Chateau St. Jean 1997 "Sonoma" Chardonnay ($12 or less) Really pretty to smell and taste and a dandy food companion. It's 100 percent barrel fermented, with a very small percentage of Robert Young Vineyard Pinot Blanc in the blend. Lots of lemon-grapefruit citrus with a little apple and lots of oak vanillin too. Case purchases highly recommended. Rating: 90/95

    Chateau St. Jean wines have broad national distribution, though reserve wines are limited. For information on nearest retail outlet: Chateau St. Jean, Box 293, Kenwood, CA 95452 (707) 833-4134.

   

CHARDONNAY WINNERS

  The white grape Chardonnay continues to be the largest selling wine variety in the world. It is by far the most popular wine in the U.S.

    Continuing with our report on the top medal winners from the New World International Wine Competition (one of the few judgings in the world to take price into consideration), there is very good news for bargain Chardonnay drinkers. There are nearly a dozen gold medal winners in the up to $10 price range alone.

    Best of Price Class honors to Salmon Harbor 1997 "Central Coast" ($9.50).

    Other gold medalists include: Monthaven 1997 "Napa" ($8); Emerald Bay 1997 ($7); Forest Glen 1997 ($10); Garland Ranch 1997 ($8) and Gallo of Sonoma 1997 ($10).

    Also, Cupid 1997 "South Eastern Australia" ($10); Indigo Hills 1997 "Mendocino" ($9); Quail Creek 1997 ($10); Sea Ridge Coastal 1997 ($10) and Weston Estates 1997 ($8).

    Still value-oriented at $10.01 to $14, gold and the Beringer Wine Estates Trophy for Best New World Chardonnay to: St. Supery 1997 "Napa" ($14).

    The balance of golds in the price range to: Canoe Ridge 1997 "Columbia Valley-Washington" ($14); Hogue 1997 "Columbia Valley-Washington-Barrel Select" ($14); Mill Creek 1997 "Dry Creek-Sonoma" ($14); Prince Michel 1997 "Virginia" ($13) and R.H. Phillips 1997 "Dunnigan Hills-Yolo County" ($13).

    The judges found more wines to like in the $14.01 to $20 category, with Best of Price Class going to: Villa Mt. Eden 1997 "Bien Nacido-Santa Maria" Grand Reserve ($18).

    Five more golds in this price range include: Belvedere 1997 "Russian River" ($16); Chateau Ste. Michelle 1997 "Canoe Ridge-Washington" ($17); Hanna 1996 "Russian River" ($16); Thomas Fogarty 1997 "Santa Cruz" ($19) and Marcelina 1996 "Napa" ($20).

    Only three golds in the over $20 price range, with Best of Price Class to: Gary Farrell 1997 "Rochioli-Russian River-Sonoma" ($50). The other two golds were Chabra 1997 "Monterey Estate" ($31) and RustRidge 1997 "Napa" ($25).

    Because so many wines were mentioned we can't provide all the winery contact numbers. But feel free to contact my office for help tracking wines down (800) 845-9463 or E-mail: winetrader @aol.com

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Wines are scored using a unique 100 point system. First number rates quality; second number rates value.