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  Eileen Crane - A Palate to be Respected "After almost 21 years of tasting cuvees and creating blends for sparkling wines, I feel as if I have developed a sort of sixth sense that tells me what flavors in food and wine go well together, and which don't work at all," remarks Eileen Crane, winemaker and managing director of Domaine Carneros (Napa, CA). "And yet, if it hadn't been for a chance remark by Eric Miller, owner/winemaker, Chaddsford Winery (Chadds Ford, PA), I would never have made a single cuvee. 'You know,' he said, 'there's this place in California called Davis, where you can study winemaking.' Until then, it had never occurred to me that someone could just 'study' winemaking. Somehow I thought you were born into it; now I knew there was a route leading to exactly where I wanted to be." When Eileen graduated from Davis, the wineries told her they wouldn't be hiring any technical staff until harvest, still many months away, so she became a part-time tour guide at Domaine Chandon (Yountville, CA). In 1984, after six years at Chandon, Eileen was asked by Frexinet S. A. to design a facility and oversee production for Gloria Ferrer Champagne Cellars. A few years later, joint venturists, Champagne Taittinger and Kobrand Corporation made a similar request, calling on Eileen to design the winery and serve as winemaker at Domaine Carneros. At both sparking wine houses, there was a major emphasis on wine paired with food. The wines presented at winery dinners and lunches at Domaine Carneros are, generally, Brut, Le Rêve (Blanc de Blancs) and Brut Rosé. The Brut may be served with any course, but it is often presented with the hors d'oeuvres and, since it is more than half Pinot Noir, Eileen likes it with steak. It is also, in her opinion, the "best oyster wine in the world." The match Eileen seeks for Le Rêve, which is always a blend of more than 90% Chardonnay with Pinot Blanc, is with rich shellfish like crab or lobster or seafood, like salmon. The creaminess and citrusy flavor of the Chardonnay, she feels plays off the fatty content of the fish. The winery's still wine, Pinot Noir, usually accompanies the cheese course. "When we offer a more structured program, it starts with a discussion of flavor elements and how flavors balance each other when food is served with wine," she explains. "A sampler plate of salad, cheese, fish and meat is served with the foods. We avoid making any specific flavor references so that no one has a feeling that there is a 'right' or 'wrong' pairing. We invite comments and questions, and expect a lot of surprises, but never expect a consensus," remarks Eileen. Speaking of surprises, she adds, "I like a hamburger with a glass of brut, myself."
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