How can a wine critic know he's getting old? Well, in my case I was among the first to review wines sold by the fifth generation of Mirassous in the California wine business. The fourth generation had been primarily in the grape growing business and in making bulk wine to sell to other wineries.

    These days its members of the sixth generation who notify me of new releases and hold a number of prestige positions at the winery. And the sixth generation is already at work on the seventh.

    Mirassou 1997 "White Burgundy" Pinot Blanc ($11) One hundred percent Pinot Blanc fermented in stainless steel to capture lots of big, ripe melon fruit...fruit so intense you imagine sweetness in the technically dry wine. Often my favorite from Mirassou, this version may be a little too fruity...more a wine for cocktail time than for accompanying food. Rating: 87/83

    Mirassou 1996 "Reserve" Pinot Blanc ($17) Mirassou is the world's largest marketer of Pinot Blanc and it's their largest selling wine. This is their best, at least this year, a gold medal winner at the New World International and 100 percent barrel-fermented. You can smell and taste the French oak and even the char from the inside of the barrels. Gobs of melon and tropical fruit, but the wood turns those fruit flavors complex. Rating: 94/84

    Mirassou 1997 "Family Selection" Chardonnay ($12) Apple and pineapple fruit; subtle oak; crisp acidity. A nice seafood wine...makes me want a halibut or swordfish filet. Rating: 87/86.

    Mirassou 1997 "Showcase Selection" Chardonnay ($30) Only about 2000 cases of this very special wine. Barrel-fermented style from two vineyard locations. Soft apple fruit; heavy toast barrel flavors; smoky complexity. At once rich and buttery and crisply acid. Rating: 92/82

    For specific retail outlets or to arrange visits to the winery: Mirassou, 3000 Aborn Rd., San Jose, CA 95135 (408) 274-4000.

   

CONSUMER LAWSUIT

  In what may turn out to be the most important legal action involving wine and consumers in the past 60 years, two major Texas legal firms have filed suit in federal court on behalf of consumer plaintiffs with the Texas attorney general as defendant.

    The lawsuit is based on the fact that Texas, as does many other states, places restrictions on consumer purchases of wine from other states, restrictions not placed on other consumer products and comestibles.

    It is a civil rights suit claiming that the consumers are being denied constitutional rights under the Commerce Clauses of the U.S. Constitution, which guarantee that every consumer and every merchant in the nation have free access to each other, unencumbered by tariffs or regulations that would exclude the produce of one state from being purchased by willing buyers in another.

    A similar lawsuit has been filed in Indiana.

    Elsewhere on the legal front on the interstate shipping issue, North Dakota has passed legislation permitting consumers to import one case per month and personal importation legislation is also pending in Nevada that would permit up to 12 cases per year.

    Meanwhile, Arizona and several other states are proposing legislation to make felons of citizens returning from a wine country vacation with even a single bottle.

    In Kentucky, Georgia, and a few other states, where such personal importation is already a felony, you can do more time for bringing in a few bottles of wine from out of state than if you rob or hurt someone.

   

JACOB'S CREEK

  One of the largest selling export brands of Australia (especially successful in Britain) is the popularly priced line of wines known as Jacob's Creek.

    Jacob's Creek 1998 Semillon-Chardonnay ($9) Blending these two grapes is an Aussie tradition that's beginning to catch on here in the States. This particular example is 80 percent Semillon and 20 percent Chardonnay, but it's not your usual perception of Semillon, which tends to be richer and fatter. This one is more like a Sauvignon Blanc, with citrus flavors and crisp acidity, though there is a little of that fresh fig quality that Semillon is known for. Rating: 87/90

    Jacob's Creek 1998 Chardonnay ($9) Aged in 100 percent French oak (unusual for this price range) with lemony citrus fruit aromas and flavors along with notes of creamy vanillin. A better food companion than many California versions because of a crisply acid finish. Rating: 86/88

    Jacob's Creek 1997 Merlot ($9) Serious black cherry flavor and no harsh tannins. Pleasant to drink, but little if any wood complexity. It's a straightforward fruit style. Rating: 84/88

    Jacob's Creek 1999 Cabernet Sauvignon ($9) Plum, currant and berry fruit with a herbaceous note. A decent quaff, but there's a slightly bitter edge to the finish. Sound, but my least favorite of the reds. Rating: 83/85

BEST BUY
WINE OF THE WEEK

    Jacob's Creek 1997 Shiraz-Cabernet ($9 or less) My favorite wine in the line and really great bargain. Lean and elegant structure with the acidity of a good Italian wine. It will cut through garlic and spice, handle red meat and game, tomato sauce or Italian sausage. Plum and berry fruit with a hint of peppery spice in the background. Case purchases recommended. Rating: 88/92

    Jacob's Creek wines have broad national distribution in wine shops and supermarkets. If you have trouble finding any of the wines, contact my office at (800) 845-9463 or e-mail: winetrader@aol.com and I'll put you in contact with the importer.

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Wines are scored using a unique 100 point system. First number rates quality; second number rates value.