It's hard to believe that this small South Central Coast winery is more than 20 years old. It hasn't been the only winery in Ventura County for a number of years, but it was the first modern, post-Prohibition winery in the area.

Leeward still produces only a little over 15,000 cases annually, but the Chardonnay has strong distribution in California and Nevada and a number of other states. The red wines are more limited and more difficult to find.

If you drive the California coast between Los Angeles and Santa Barbara, the winery is open for tours and tastings seven days a week, and you can also call for information on retail availability: Leeward Winery, 2784 Johnson Dr., Ventura, CA 93003 (805) 656-5054.

Leeward 1997 "Edna Valley Reserve" Chardonnay ($16) Wow! Beautiful, extremely rich, 100 percent varietal and 100 percent barrel-fermented, there is smoky, toasty complexity of top of tropical and ripe apple fruit. Barrel char complexity shows through in the aftertaste. Case purchases highly recommended. Rating: 95/95

Leeward 1997 "Bien Nacido" Pinot Noir ($20) This wine's statement is almost entirely about fruit, specifically friendly cherry and plum fruit. It's a round, soft and friendly wine without a touch of harshness or astringency. Rating: 87/84

Leeward 1997 "Bien Nacido Reserve" Pinot Noir ($25) Very limited and well worth the extra $5. Really intense black cherry fruit flavors, with notes of rose oil and tea leaf and a touch of spice. It's a totally satisfying Pinot experience. Rating: 94/84

Leeward 1996 "Napa" Merlot ($20) Really, really big as Merlots go, with concentrated, highly extracted black cherry fruit and a pleasant hint of cherry stone bitterness. Will improve with 3-5 years cellaring and as big as it is, there's still no harshness. Rating: 92/84

Leeward 1995 "Napa" Cabernet Sauvignon ($20) Deep, very intense berry and cassis fruit, with overtones of bittersweet chocolate. The wine has very bold tannins. It's a question whether there's enough fruit to see them soften. Rating: 85/84

Leeward also produces about 100 cases of Santa Barbara area Syrah which is available only at the winery. It shows great promise and production will increase in the future.

BEST BUY
WHITE WINE OF THE WEEK

Leeward 1997 "Central Coast" Chardonnay ($11) A blend of fruit from San Ysidro and Edna Valley. Barrel-fermented and it shows. Tropical fruit flavors with a hint of lime in the finish, and noticeable, very pleasant toasty oak in the bouquet, taste and aftertaste. Very complex for the price point and widely available. May even be found at some upscale supermarkets. Rating: 88/96

BEST BUY
RED WINE OF THE WEEK

The Monterey Vineyard 1997 Pinot Noir ($7) I've never been a fan of this wine in previous vintages. I'm told it's amazing transformation in 1997 is due to the winery ceasing production of a Reserve version, with its special fruit going instead to this general release. Mostly plum with some cherry in the fruit department. Soft and very accessible. A great wine for red wine beginners. Drink it with baked chicken, broiled salmon or tuna. Rating: 85/95

SILVER OAK PREVIEW

Silver Oak is one of those charismatic collectable wines that people get on waiting lists to buy, that is very tightly allocated and a great deal more of which is sold in restaurants than at retail.

Limited production wineries like to sell through restaurants for a couple of reasons. If it's the right fancy restaurant, it is image-enhancing for the wine. Also, the winery figures more people will be exposed to the wine because it is usually sold one bottle at a time in restaurants, where retailers are more likely to sell in case lots to favored customers.

Silver Oak makes two Cabernet Sauvignon wines, one with a Napa appellation, which is very limited, and an Alexander Valley version of which there is considerably more. It's the latter you are most likely to encounter.

The 1993 "Alex," as it gets called in the trade, was a controversial wine. A lot of S.O. fans didn't like it much. And I personally thought the 1994 was o.k. but not spectacular, or worth the money. The 1995 which will be officially released Aug. 1, 1999 is another matter entirely. It is special. Get on as many retailer waiting lists as you can.

Silver Oak 1995 "Alexander Valley" Cabernet Sauvignon ($50) The best "Alex" in several vintages and a textbook example of "the iron fist in the velvet glove." It is big, rich, ripe, highly extracted and fairly powerful. Flavors are in the black cherry and cassis vein. The finish velvety and supple with already developing complexity. Rating: 96/84

HARD TO FIND

Pavona is a small producer based in Monterey County, which sources grapes and wines from a variety of regions. Availability is pretty much restricted to California, though they are looking to expand. Inquiries as to retail out lets can be made by calling (831) 646-1506.

Pavona 1996 "Monterey" Pinot Blanc ($14) Partially barrel-fermented, this 100 percent varietal wine tastes of melon and apple with spicy oak vanillin. Rating: 88/85

Pavona 1997 "Napa" Zinfandel ($16) Big, highly extracted Zin with blackberry and plum fruit. Ripe but not overripe and definitely cellar worthy. Rating: 92/90

Pavona 1995 "Twin Hills-Paso Robles" Zinfandel ($16) Over the top, too ripe, too much of a good thing, just not a style I like very much. Big, very ripe cassis flavors just shy of becoming prune and a little high in alcohol. But I must confess, my companion and several other tasters preferred it to the Napa. Go figure. Rating: 86/85

Pavona also makes a dandy Zinfandel Port which is worth checking out.

Subscription Information

Wines are scored using a unique 100 point system. First number rates quality; second number rates value.