© 1997 JDM Enterprises All Rights Reserved Vol. I No. 37 How To Subscribe TASTING NOTES by Jerry D. Mead This is another of those weeks when I'm relying on my tasting notebook to inspire the column. There are some really tasty wines to discuss, and I'll tell you just a little about each producer. LOCKWOOD This is a large winegrowing estate in Monterey County, the primary business of which is selling grapes to other wineries. But winemaker Steve Pessagno has his pick of the crop from which to produce Lockwood's "Estate Grown" wines, which guarantees consistent quality year after year. Lockwood wines have good national distribution, but are most likely to be found at wine specialty shops and restaurants. For nearest retail outlet contact: Lockwood Vineyard, P.O. Box 1997, Salinas, CA 93902 (800) 753-1424. Lockwood 1996 "Monterey" Sauvignon Blanc ($10) Mostly melon and grapefruit aromas and flavors with a definite oak vanilla bouquet. Rich, intensely flavored and very satisfying white wine experience. Nicely wooded flavors and after-flavors but not overdone. Rating: 89/88 Lockwood 1996 "Monterey" Pinot Blanc ($12) Clean, crisp and pleasantly tart. More delicate than Chardonnay, but with similar flavors. Lean, refreshing style makes it a better food companion than most Chardonnays and at a very reasonable price. Subtle use of oak. Rating: 88/88 Lockwood 1995 "Monterey" Sangiovese ($16) A first release for Lockwood and a successful one. Bigger than most Pinots (and most other Sangioveses) yet more delicate than most Merlots, there's a spicy aroma (sort of like Christmas spice, whatever that is) followed by flavors of red plum and hints of strawberry. Rating: 86/85 Lockwood 1995 "Monterey" Merlot ($17) Blended to 7 percent Cabernet Sauvignon and 18 percent Cabernet Franc, this one is a real winner. Big, earthy, bittersweet chocolate and black cherry aromas, with more intense black cherry in the taste. Quite complex; amazingly round and friendly for a wine with so much flavor. Rating: 92/85 ROOTING FOR RUTZ I recently reviewed several other Rutz wines, commenting that the more boldly flavored Pinot Noirs would be released a little later...which is now. Vintner Keith Rutz is able to indulge his passion for wine, focussing on Burgundian styled Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs, as a result of his success in the fashion industry, at one time as an executive for Esprit and now as producer of the Kenneth Cole and Ritz lines of accessories. Rutz wines are very limited and they are expensive. To track them down: Rutz Cellars, 410 Townsend St., San Francisco, CA 94107 (415) 974-1261. Rutz 1995 "Dutton-Russian River Valley" Pinot Noir ($30) Crushed rose perfume; subtle, earthy, tarry complexity. Light color, delicate style, but very interesting. Flavors in the cranberry range. Rating: 88/82 Rutz 1995 "Weir-Mendocino" Pinot Noir ($35) Remember the name of this new vineyard designated wine. It is a new star in the Pinot firmament. Really deep, dark appearance promises serious Pinot...and delivers. Intense black cherry, plum and rose hips in the flavor, and very complex, earthy after-flavors. A must for collectors. Rating: 96/86 CHIMERE Limited production wines that are handcrafted from select vineyards by winemaker Gary Mosby. Mosby did UC DAvis, then played "cellar rat" at Sterling before becoming assistant winemaker at Chalone and winemaker at Edna Valley Vineyards. Chimere means "day dream" or "fantasy." Besides the two wines reviewed, Chimere also makes quite good Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc and Merlot. Chimere wines are almost impossible to find outside their California base. For further information or to be placed on the mailing list: Chimere, P.O. Box 7067, Santa Maria, CA 93456 (805) 922-9097. Chimere 1994 "Santa Barbara" Pinot Noir ($24) Black cherry, plum and fresh-cut, sweet raw beet are the aroma and taste impressions. Dry of course, but with an intimation of fruit and barrel sweetness. Already developing complexity. Great with salmon. Rating: 90/86 Chimere 1994 "Santa Barbara" Nebbiolo ($17) The famous grape of Piedmont in northwestern Italy in one of its best-ever New World incarnations. Cedary, spicy complexity on earthy but bright cherry fruit flavors. Hints of smoke and anise. Light to medium bodied but intensely flavored. Great with tuna, salmon, veal or tomato-sauced pastas. Barolo it ain't, but it will make you think of Nebbiolo d'Alba. Rating: 92/86 COLLECTABLE WINE OF THE WEEK Raymond 1994 "Generations" Cabernet Sauvignon ($35) Raymond's "show-off" wine, if you will, and the wine that more or less replaces what used to be called "Private Reserve." More than 90 percent Cabernet Sauvignon, it contains small portions of Merlot and Cabernet Franc. If you're impressed by such things, it comes in a really fancy bottle with gold embossed lettering. What you should be impressed by is the really big, chewy, intense red wine that is at the same time elegant and supple. Then there's the big black cherry, black currant and bittersweet chocolate flavors that enter boldly, build through the middle flavors and explode in the finish, taking literally minutes to subside as a very pleasant aftertaste. Enjoyable now or watch it improve with up to a decade of cellaring. Rating: 97/85 Any retailer which stocks Raymond's other selections should be able to order "Generations" if it isn't already in stock. Or contact the winery for additional information: Raymond Vineyard, 849 Zinfandel Lane, St. Helena, CA 94574 (800) 525-2659. Wines are scored using a unique 100-point system. First number rates quality; second number rates value. For a reprint explaining the scoring system in depth and a pocket scoring guide, send $1 to: Mead's 100 Points, Box 1598, Carson City, NV 89702-1598. HOME © 1997 JDM Enterprises. All Rights Reserved The Mead On Wine WebSite is designed, maintained and hosted by Wines on the Internet. Latest Update: October 15, 1997