© 1997 JDM Enterprises WHITEHALL UPDATEby Jerry D. MeadThrough nearly 20 years of existence and two sets of owners, Napa Valley's Whitehall Lane Winery has always had a reputation for making excellent red wines. Under the stewardship of current owner, merchant-entrepreneur Tom Leonardini, the winery has enhanced its image and added a note of machismo. Whitehall Lane reds are now known to be big, bold, take-no-prisoners type reds, which is not to imply that they lack style and finesse. Even the Merlots turn out to be well-muscled and bigger than folks expect. The latest collection of wines, most scheduled for a September 1 release, are outstanding or even better. Whitehall Lane 1996 "Bommarito Vineyard" Sauvignon Blanc ($12) Partially barrel-fermented, is more about grapefruit than grass, and ripe, friendly grapefruit at that. No tartness or bitterness even in the finish. In fact round and friendly is how I think of it. It will work either at cocktail time or with food. Rating: 87/85 Whitehall Lane 1995 "Napa" Merlot ($20) Superb effort. Blended to 17 percent Cabernet Sauvignon for added backbone and complexity, this is bold, serious, red wine, not your soft, fruity companion for California cuisine that Merlot so often is. Lots of extraction and flavor concentration, mostly in the black cherry vein. Nicely oaked; long finish. Rating: 93/85 Whitehall Lane 1995 "Leonardini Reserve" Merlot ($36) Amazing! Only 5 percent Cabernet, but even bigger and more concentrated. Aged 20 months in a combination of French and American oak. Deep flavors ranging from black cherry to blackberry and a little black currant. Earthy complexity and very, very long after-flavors. Will definitely benefit from cellaring. Rating 95/82 Whitehall Lane 1995 "Napa" Zinfandel ($20) For my personal taste, this wine is too much of a good thing. It's like getting Dolly Parton when I was dreaming of Sharon Stone, if you know what I mean and I think you do. But it is also the style favored by many "Zinfanatics." Blended to 18 percent Petite Sirah, it's another "biggy." Very ripe (bordering on overripe) plum and berry flavors with spicy undertones. It's the kind of Zin I'd serve, not with the meal, but with cheese and conversation in lieu of dessert. Alas! There's only one more vintage. The 70 year old vineyard has been bulldozed and replanted to tract homes. Rating: 90/84 Whitehall Lane 1994 "Morisoli Reserve" Cabernet Sauvignon ($36) This always intense vineyard-designated Cabernet has a track record and a following...with good cause. It always has tremendous depth of flavor, and is always in need of cellaring to show its best, and it is a wine that I consistently recommend. But unless you're a die-hard collector of this wine, I suggest you skip this vintage. The flavor is there as usual, but so is an awareness of alcohol, and that isn't likely to change with age. At $36 it ought to be perfect. Rating: 86/79 Galleron 1994 "Napa Valley" ($50) The wine happens to be 100 percent Cabernet Sauvignon, but the label has no varietal designation. That's because "Galleron" is winemaker Gary Galleron's personal wine, of which there is never more than 250 cases, and which is the best wine he can make from all the barrels and lots in the winery. There's no variety listed because it's a different wine each year. Call it a bonus, an incentive, whatever, Whitehall Lane owner Tom Leonardini lets Galleron "cherry-pick" any 12 barrels in the winery for this wine. This year's version is 75 percent Leonardini Vineyard and 25 percent Morisoli Vineyard. It's a monster! An ooh and aah wine! It's a wine that will impress even your wine snob acquaintances. All the black fruits are here and in layers and waves of fruit flavors. Big, bold structure, but with manageable tannins. Smoky, pleasant char complexity. Very long, smoky, earthy aftertaste. If you're looking for a wine to lay away for babies born in 1994 to drink on their 21st birthday, this is one that will go the distance. A great wine if your a person possessed of patience. Rating: 96/84 Whitehall Lane wines are available in most states in at least limited quantity and are most often found in wine specialty shops and fine restaurants. To track down nearest availability: Whitehall Lane Winery, 1563 St. Helena Hwy., St. Helena, CA 94574 (707) 963-9454.
MORE RESULTSThis year's "Best of Show" winner of the American Airlines Silver Bird Trophy is an Australian wine, Rosemount Estate 1994 "McLaren Vale Reserve" Shiraz. Shiraz is the grape we call Syrah in the U.S. You can order complete results of the Indy by sending $2 to cover printing and postage to: Indy Wine Winners, Box 1598, Carson City, NV 89702.
NEW WINE CLUBUnlike some clubs that offer to send two bottles of wine a month and that's it, the W.E. Wine Club offers a variety of choices as to what you'll receive. All red? Sure. All white? That too. All Bordeaux, all connoisseur-collector quality wines and other categories to choose from as well. For more information: W.E. Wine Club, P.O. Box 459, Pleasantville, NY 10570 (800) 962-8463. The Wine of the Week will be back next week. Wines are scored using a unique 100 point system. First number rates quality; second number rates value.
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