© 1996 JDM Enterprises
1996 AWARDSby Jerry D. MeadIt must be done! It cannot be avoided! Some strange force compels every columnist in America to write a year-end column using some obvious device or other. Having used several over the years, I've settled on one that recognizes persons, entities and products with gold, silver and bronze awards (not unlike a wine competition). And on the not-so-positive side of things, there's the "Dregs" (the bottom of the barrel) or worst of all, the dreaded "Phylloxera Award" (named for that infamous, vineyard-destroying root louse). GOLD to "Winery of the Year" is always a tough decision, because so many vintners are candidates. I've picked Kendall-Jackson this year, not for the extremely popular and moderately priced "Vintner's Reserve" Chardonnay it is best known for, but for almost everything else it produces (especially the red wines), and for being the medal-winningest winery of the year for the third year in row. GOLD for "Winemaker of the Year" to someone I've never met and whose wines I have never reviewed, though I taste them every chance I get and mention them frequently because of all the medals they win. She is Carol Shelton of Windsor Vineyards in Sonoma County. I have never reviewed her wines, because I have a policy of not critiquing wines consumers can't buy from local retailers. Windsor wines are sold winery-direct only (mostly by mail). That doesn't take away from the fact that Shelton's wines are often spectacular and in the top five (number three in 1996) of medal winners every year for many years. GOLD for "Wine of the Year" to Ficklin "Tinta" Port for being better than it has ever been (and it has always been wonderful)...for still being affordable at around $10...and for being the one California wine that has pleased my palate consistently for all the 30-some years I've been a serious wine fancier. It is made from a solera containing wines dating back to 1948! GOLD for awesome debut to Indian Springs Vineyards of Nevada County, California, for bursting on the scene with three gold medal winning red wines, all from the first crop and first wines from a brand new vineyard. The Syrah was the medal-winningest wine of its type. Watch this one! GOLD to the researcher who showed that wine (of any color) is more effective against three common bacteria known to cause gastrointestinal distress and traveler's diarrhea, namely salmonella, shigella and E coli, than the most commonly employed pharmaceutical, bismuth salicylate. I am not the first to say, "A little wine for thy stomach's sake." PHYLLOXERA to Major General William J. Nash, the commander of American forces in Bosnia, for inflicting Prohibition on the troops, even when off duty. Those involved in negotiations (officers, of course) are permitted to drink to keep from insulting the locals. Too bad for the troops, the local wines are quite palatable. PHYLLOXERA to the state of Kentucky for passing a law making it a felony to ship wine from another state to a consumer there. GOLD to the 100 or so wineries which now refuse to sell any wine in that state, even through normal distribution channels, as a means of protest. GOLD to Fess Parker Winery down Santa Barbara County way for most dramatic improvement. From making o.k. wines a few years back, to making blockbusters in almost every category is a pretty amazing feat. GOLD to Beaulieu Vineyards for making some of the progressive changes many of us have advocated for the past 20 years...like adding French oak, new blends and new varieties. And the early results are so positive. DREGS to California's ABC (Alcohol Beverage Control) for refusing to allow small craft brewers to exchange fresh stock for seasonal beers that have passed their freshness codes? Why? Because ABC says that exchanged goods have to be identical, and since it is seasonal beer being replaced those labels are no longer available. Not a problem for the bland and neutral-tasting Budweisers and Millers of the world...they never change. This definitely discriminates against the little guys and quality. DREGS to ATF for having to be sued for permission to print beer's alcohol contents on their labels, when that same information is mandatory for wine and spirits. SILVER for surprise, bargain, fun wine of the year to Blossom Hill 1995 Symphony, which is slightly sweet, very fruity and lots of fun...and $5 or less! GOLD to Raymond Vineyards for knocking my sox off year after year with both white and red wines. Another "Winery of the Year" contender every year. GOLD to Ferrari-Carano for continuing to just do everything right, including making the Zin that earned a perfect score. The new visitor center is a major Sonoma County attraction. SILVER to the Indiana State Fair for biggest leap in quality and number of entries of any major wine competition. A few more nationally known judges, maybe a couple of international palates and an official awards book would get it the gold. BRONZE to the Orange County Fair and San Francisco Fair for picking good wines...but giving too few gold medals. And you've both been getting stingier every year. DREGS to Sacramento, California for passing local option laws that make second-class merchants in nearly half of the city. Some (but not all) merchants are forbidden to sell wines over 15 percent alcohol (that's most of the Zinfandel from neighboring Amador County and our "Wine of the Year"), or half-bottles (some of the most expensive dessert wines are available in no other size), and beer can't be sold in quantities smaller than a 6-pack. Inviting corruption, the regulators have the power to make arbitrary exceptions. GOLD to Chile, South Africa, Bulgaria, Argentina, the south of France and other winegrowing places which are providing reasonably priced wines during a time of shortage and price escalation in California. GOLD to me for beginning my 28th year of writing America's longest running wine column.
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