© 1996 JDM Enterprises
WINE COUNTRYby Jerry D. MeadIt's harvest time in California wine country, and it started a little early most places this year due to some very steady and unrelenting warm temperatures. It's the time of year lots of people like to visit, to hear the whir of machinery, smell the newly fermenting wine and share the excitement of the vintage. It's also the time when the roads and highways are even busier than usual, because of trucks and trailers hauling grapes to wineries. It is the time when everyone of any importance at a winery is very, very busy, and hospitality is most likely left to hired hands rather than principals or vintners. So, it's my least favorite time to visit. I suppose everyone should do it once, but after you've "been there - done that," you'll discover that late fall after harvest is over, or spring before school lets out, are much better times to visit. But if you have your heart set on visiting wine country this harvest, and you're anywhere in California, you won't have far to go. From nearly to the Mexican border in the south, to nearly the Oregon border in the north, and virtually all along the coast, there is viticulture and winemaking and wineries to visit. In recent weeks we've proven that by reviewing wines from Temecula (Riverside County) at one extreme to Mendocino in the north, and lots of wines from in between places like Monterey, Santa Barbara, Santa Cruz, Livermore, and even Napa and Sonoma. The wines in my tasting notebook continue to be from all over the state: Paraiso Springs 1995 "Santa Lucia" Pinot Blanc ($10) Lemon, citrus and light but noticeable vanillin. More delicate than Chardonnay and therefore actually more food compatible. Very tasty. Rating: 86/86 Paraiso Springs 1995 Pinot Blanc Reserve ($15) Toasty, oaky, richer, longer after-flavors. More concentration of fruit flavors, too. Just a hint of astringency in the finish, but you'll never notice it when drinking the wine with food. Rating: 89/85 Paraiso Springs 1995 "Santa Lucia" Pinot Noir ($14) Best Paraiso Pinot ever. Blueberry and black raspberry fruit with crushed rose perfume. A Burgundian kind of complexity just beginning to show. Rating: 89/87 Paraiso Springs 1995 Johannisberg Riesling ($8) The wine this Monterey County winery is best known for. The fruit flavors include apple, peach, kiwi and lichee. It's fresh, fruity, pleasantly refreshing and is slightly sweet and has tangy acidity. Rating: 86/87. Chalk Hill 1993 "Estate" Sauvignon Blanc ($14) A barrel-fermented style that is more likely to appeal to the Chardonnay drinker than the traditional SB drinker. Oak flavors dominate the fruit, but there's some underlying grapefruit (no grass) and a little fresh fig. The wine is blended to 12 percent Semillon. Rating: 88/84 Chalk Hill 1994 Chardonnay ($21) Toasty and smoky notes of complexity on top of subtle citrus flavors with a hint of lime peeking through. Mineral-earth-flint complexities make the wine very interesting and the very pleasing aftertaste stays around for a long time. Rating: 92/82 Chalk Hill 1993 "Estate" Cabernet Sauvignon ($23) The 4th in a continuing string of brilliant Cabernets. One of the most complex California Cabs in its price range, it is very Bordeaux-like, with very earthy and slightly smoky, leathery, blackberry fruit flavors. The high concentration of flavor just goes on and on. A "Best Buy" even at $20-plus. Rating: 94/90 There has been a big change at Sonoma County's Chalk Hill. Winemaker David Ramey left for a position at Dominus and has been replaced by Bill Knuttel who comes from Saintsbury. Knuttel doesn't plan any major stylistic changes, but a new winemaker always means some change. Time will tell if that's a positive or a negative. Wente 1994 "Riva Ranch Reserve" Chardonnay ($13) This Monterey County (Wente owns vineyards in both Monterey and Livermore Valley) is the best of three Chardonnays in the line, in my opinion. Ripe melon and subtle tropical flavors in a wine with all the bells and whistles. Forgive the techno-babble, but this wine is barrel-fermented and and 100 percent of it underwent malo-lactic fermentation, which converts tart malic acid into soft, buttery lactic acid. This wine still retains its crispness and flinty structure. A super food wine and a "Best Buy." Rating: 90/90 Wente 1994 "Crane Ridge-Livermore" Merlot ($13) A very unusual California Merlot. It has pleasant and typical cherry fruit, but a leaner, tighter structure than most California (or French) Merlots. Add some subtle earth-flint notes and you have a very good food companion. Rating: 86/86
BEST BUY WINE OF THE WEEKWhen I mention several wineries, I don't have room to list all the addresses and phones. If you have trouble finding something, call (800) 845-9463 and I or one of my staff will help you track it down.
Wines are scored using a unique 100 point system. First number rates quality; second number rates value. For a reprint explaining the scoring system in depth and a pocket scoring guide, send $1 to: Mead's 100 Points, P.O. Box 1598, Carson City, NV 89702-1598.
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