© 1996 JDM Enterprises Grand Championby Jerry D. MeadRegular readers know that I promote major wine competition results as among the best buying guides around. When hundreds, even thousands, of wines are tasted over a period of a few days by expert panels, the cream does rise to the top. It's the kind of mass undertaking magazines, newsletters and individual critics cannot duplicate in so short a period of time. I have always believed that the major benefit of wine judgings is that they motivate consumers to try medal winning wines they wouldn't have considered otherwise. But not only do consumers find new wines among the winners, sometimes us critic types find new wines, too. I got talked into going to Indianapolis in the middle of July, where the humidity is sometimes higher than the temperature and both are close to three digits. My destination being the Indiana State Fair International Wine Competition, the largest such event in the Midwest and one of the largest in the nation. Entries went over the 1700 mark in 1996. The overall "Best of Show" award went to a $15 red wine that was new to me, and that beat out many more expensive and famous wines of every type and color. I happened to be on the panel that gave it its unanimous gold medal that sent it into sweepstakes contention. Casa Lapostolle 1994 Merlot "Cuvee Alexandre" ($15) is a Chilean wine, from a relatively cool growing region some 100 miles south of Santiago. For a wine so bold, it is amazingly 100 percent Merlot. It comes from a brand new multi-million dollar facility invested in by the French family that owns Grand Marnier liqueur and a well known property in the Loire Valley. The winemaker is also well known and French from a small property in Pomerol...a region that makes arguably the greatest Merlot based wines in the world. Add a couple of other ingredients, like 100 year old, dry-farmed vineyards and expensive new French oak barriques (small barrels) and the secrets to its debut success become more understandable. Big, bold, ripe, with significant oak presence in a spicy kind of way, on bold black cherry and cassis fruit that is highly extracted from low-yielding vines. It has plenty of structure to age and improve for at least five years, but it is so beautifully balanced and supple that you'll want to build special meals around it now. Very great red wine at a "Best Buy," for what you get, price. Rating: 98/92 Casa Lapostolle wines are imported by Schieffelin & Somerset and have reasonably good national distribution. To track down local availability: 2 Park Ave. - 17th Flr., NY, NY 10016 (212) 251-8200. MORE INDIANAThere's actually 20 wineries in the state of Indiana, many of them making really excellent wine. For a color booklet listing them all along with additional tourist information, send $1 to cover postage to: Indiana Wine Council, 5610 Crawfordsville Rd. #2004, Indianapolis, IN 46224. *** I also learned that the Indiana State Fair is one of the few venues where home winemakers (lots of them in California) from anywhere can enter their wines into competition. To get on the mailing list for entry forms in 1997: Dr. Richard P. Vine, Smith Hall, Purdue University, W. Lafayette, IN 47907. Vine is the international and home competition coordinator and the man behind the events' tremendous growth. He is a professor of food science, an expert on enology and viticulture and the wine buyer for American Airlines' exceptional cellar in the sky. BEST BUY WINE OF THE WEEKConcannon 1994 "Livermore" Sauvignon Blanc ($8) One of the best in the state, and its trophy as "Best Sauvignon Blanc" at the New World International argues its the best in lots of states and several countries. Delicious, soft, round citrus style -- no grass, no green beans -- just grapefruit, lemon and something a little riper tasting that I can't identify. Delicious as a cocktail sipper or match to almost any swim-fish. Rating: 90/95 ZD UPDATEI knew this winery and its wines when it was in a garage in Sonoma County. I've seen it make consistently excellent wines for more than 25 years, move from Sonoma to Napa's Silverado Trail, lose one of its founding partners (Gino Zepponi) to a tragic auto accident, grow and expand both literally and figuratively and finally see a second generation of the other founding family, de Leuze, take charge, but not quite totally take over. Mom and Dad, Norman and Rosa Lee de Leuze, are still movin' and shakin'. ZD 1994 Chardonnay ($22.50) This is the wine the winery is best known for, year after year. About 80 percent Napa fruit blended to some Sonoma, Carneros, Santa Barbara and Monterey grapes. Serious, dry, nicely oaked (but not fat or toasty) wine with mainly citrus fruit flavors with smoky notes of complexity. Very long aftertaste; very crisp acidity; makes me crave a piece of grilled halibut or swordfish. Rating: 89/84 Note that two "Library" Chardonnays will be released in September. They are from the 1993 and 1992 vintages and offer proof that well made Chardonnay does improve with age. They'll be priced in the $30 range and be available to the trade as well as through the tasting room. ZD 1994 "Carneros" Pinot Noir ($25) Smoky wood notes from new French barrels. Plum and cranberry fruit with some of that wonderful dying rose quality. Smoky, toasty afterflavors. Rating: 88/84 ZD 1993 "Napa" Cabernet Sauvignon ($27) My favorite ZD wine and it's a great red. Rich, ripe blackberry, cassis and bittersweet chocolate are the dominate flavors. Very intense; mouthfilling; round, supple tannins. Should cellar and improve for a decade or two, but is enjoyable now. Rating: 95/85 Remember, if you can't locate a wine, call Mead On Wine at (800) 845-9463 and we'll put you in contact with the winery, importer or marketing company.
Wines are scored using a unique 100 point system. First number rates quality; second number rates value. For a reprint explaining the scoring system in depth and a pocket scoring guide, send $1 to: Mead's 100 Points, P.O. Box 1598, Carson City, NV 89702-1598.
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