This 'N' That

by Jerry D. Mead

Sometimes my notebook gets cluttered with more wines than I want to, or need to, devote an entire column to. That's when you get miscellany, or would it sound better to say potpourri.

CALLAWAY UPDATE

This well known Temecula (Riverside County) winery emphasized its white wine production to the actual exclusion of reds. Winemaker Dwayne Helmuth was forbidden to make red wine. The current rage for red wines has caused a change in management thinking. When I recently tasted the wines, the reds were the most exciting. Their distribution is, Alas!, dismal. Call the winery for nearest retail outlet (909) 676-4001.

Callaway 1993 Nebbiolo ($12) This grape is a native of the Piedmont region of Italy and previous attempts to grow it in California have not been very successful. Maybe it wants to grow in Temecula? While it isn't exactly America's answer to Barolo, it is a lovely red wine, with dark cherry and cherry stone pleasantly bitter flavors and a complex finish. A strong "Best Buy." Rating: 88/90

Callaway 1994 Dolcetto ($12) What's this? A winery with an Irish name making another tasty Italian red? Substantial but not harsh red, with ripe plum and deep black cherry fruits and earthy, road-tar complexity. Drink with the same foods as you would a good hearty Zinfandel. Rating: 90/90

Callaway's best wines of the moment seem to be its limited production and experimental wines. Others worth checking out are: Mourvedre (a fashionable Rhone-style red); Viognier (a fashionable Rhone-style white); and Pinot Gris, to which Callaway contributes a distinctly California style with fresh citrus/grapefruit flavors.

BLOSSOM HILL

You are probably surprised that I'm writing about this next-door-to-a-jug brand. It started life as a second label to Almaden, when Almaden wasn't much of a quality player itself. The wines have always been concocted Central Valley blends, preserved with sorbates (which smell like geraniums) and always sweet...even the reds. Yuk!

When a representative of the brand insisted that I taste the current releases, I warned him what I was likely to say about them. He insisted that there had been change. He was right.

The standard varieties, Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, White Zinfandel and so on, are much drier, the sorbate stink is gone and I could actually drink a glass of any of them with my meal, though I certainly wouldn't go out of my way to do so.

But! There are two wines in the line actually worth commenting on, one of which is a great example of its variety as well as a great bargain.

Blossom Hill 1995 "Bistro" ($5 or less) A blend of Pinot Noir, Carignane, Grenache, Carmine and Zinfandel, in a red wine style that is little darker and heavier than a rose, but with really interesting, very youthful Cotes du Rhone kind of berry flavors with a hint of pepperiness in the finish. It actually likes to be chilled, making it nice for summer patio suppers with ham sandwiches or maybe a rotisserie chicken from the deli. Rating: 82/92

BEST BUY WINE OF THE WEEK

Blossom Hill 1995 Symphony ($5 or less) First off Symphony is a grape variety. Don't be surprised if you've never heard of it, as its commercial history is only about a decade old, being a cross between Grenache Gris and Muscat from U.C. Davis. The best versions of it have always ranged from a little sweet to very sweet. If you loved Chenin Blanc in the early 70s when it was America's favorite varietal white wine, you'll love this. Tremendous fruit leaning to melons and pears, with a little peach thrown in for good measure. It's natural fruit-sweet with plenty of acidity to leave the palate uncloyed after each sip. In the magnum (2-bottle size) it will be $9 or less. For refreshment drinking poolside, or with summertime lunches or brunches it will be very difficult to equal for taste or value. Did I say this is one of the best semi-sweet Symphony's I've ever tasted at any price? Rating: 88/95

CODORNIU UPDATE

The number one producer of "methode champenoise" (Champagne method) sparkling wine in Spain (a competitor, Freixenet, sells more in international markets), has consolidated its product line in the U.S.

Where there used to be everything from vintage dated versions, to Roses, to sweeter styles, the line has been reduced to a "Blanc de Blancs" and a "Brut," both of which are non-vintage and usually priced under $10.

BEST BUY BUBBLY OF THE WEEK

Codorniu NV Brut Cava (about $8) Cava is the approved Spanish term for bottle-fermented champagne and appears on the label of all the better Spanish bubblies. This is not only one very tasty sparkler, but is one that appeals to the American palate and that is light enough for casual summertime quaffing. The reason it tastes good to us Americans is that it features 40 percent Chardonnay, a grape taste we're fond of. Many Spanish sparklers contain no grapes grown here and therefore they taste "different" to us. The balance here is near perfect for drinking glass after glass (making it a good wedding selection if you missed doing the deed in June), and the lemony fruit flavors with just a hint of toasty yeast quality keep you coming back for more. Rating: 86/90

CALL FOR HELP

If you can't find a wine reviewed here, and I didn't provide a number for the winery or importer...call me! Honest. Call (800) 845-WINE and either myself or an assistant will help you track down a source of the wine. (There's nothing more frustrating than reading about a tasty wine and then not being able to find it.) We'll take a stab at other general wine questions, too.

Wines are scored using a unique 100 point system. First number rates quality; second number rates value. For a reprint explaining the scoring system in depth and a pocket scoring guide, send $1 to: Mead's 100 Points, P.O. Box 1598, Carson City, NV 89702-1598.

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Latest Update: September 20, 1996