It's a sign of old age for sure when someone starts every conversation with, "Why I remember when candy bars only cost a nickel." A real sign of a geezer is someone who says, "And you could get into the Saturday matinee for a double-bill, a serial and ten cartoons for only a dime! Popcorn, Coke and Milk Duds only came to another two-bits."

    Those days are long gone, and I am old enough to remember them, but somehow paying a buck for a candy bar and close to a 10-spot to get into a single film...and that much again for popcorn and a Coke, doesn't bother me nearly as much as finding many of the wines I'd like to drink on a restaurant wine list going for $40 or more, when my entree is well under $20.

    Now wine is my game, I drink it most every day, with most every meal (though I haven't found one to go with French Toast and maple syrup), but it takes a very special wine and a very special occasion to pry $40 to $50 out of my wallet to acquire a beverage to accompany my meal.

    As a professional, who is absolutely intimidation proof when it comes to snooty waiters, I have a number of solutions to the problem of restaurants that mark wine prices up way too high.

    One option is to ignore the most popular varieties, Chardonnay, Cabernet, Merlot or French Bordeaux or Burgundy. What does that leave? Lots of wonderful wines, like Sauvignon Blanc, Petite Sirah, Chenin Blanc, Italian Chianti, just about anything from Australia, Chile or Argentina or any other wine that isn't currently fashionable. Restaurants don't mark these wines up as much...they can't or they wouldn't sell.

    Another option is to order a wine "by the glass." The mark-up is usually equally high, but by ordering a single glass and nursing it you can satisfy your palate's desire for red wine to accompany that lamb chop, without having to take out a second mortgage on the old homestead.

    If it's a restaurant you regularly patronize, and which you would patronize more often if the wine wasn't so costly, tell the owner or manager and inquire if they have a "corkage" policy. That's where you bring your own wine and pay a small fee for the restaurant to extract the cork, provide you with stemware and serve it. A corkage fee of $10 is common, but even at $15 or $20 you will often save money when compared to the restaurant's mark-up. But always remember, "corkage" is a privilege, not a right, and you should query the restaurant each time you want to bring your own...and it is tacky to bring wine they have on the list.

    Final option? Complain about the pricing policy, order a beer or iced tea instead of wine...don't go back.

    I should hasten to note that I currently reside in northern Nevada where restaurant wine prices are some of the most reasonable in the nation, even though wholesale and retail prices are often higher. Visiting big city restaurants in other states can cause real sticker shock.

   

PHELPS UPDATE

  Yes, Joseph Phelps Vineyards of Napa is one of those wineries now able to charge very fancy prices. Its highly regarded red wine "Insignia" now commands $100 at retail and up to twice that much in restaurants.

    Insignia is a very special wine, though, and Phelps a winery that has paid its dues. It's the wines we've never heard of, charging fancy prices in their first or second vintage that really mystify us.

    Also to Phelps' credit, they've always maintained some really good wines in the line at prices people can afford.

    Joseph Phelps 1998 "Napa" Viognier ($30) This is not one of the affordables, in my opinion. It is a superior example of the variety, with peach-skin and kumquat aromas and flavors and a round, almost oily mouthfeel. If any Viognier is worth $30, it's probably this one...I just find the entire category overpriced. Rating: 94/79

    Joseph Phelps 1997 "Le Mistral" ($25) A Rhone-style blend, featuring 43 percent of Grenache, 28 of Syrah, 12 of Mourvedre and the balance to small amounts of Petite Sirah, Alicante Bouschet and Carignane. Plum and cassis are the fruit flavors. Highly extracted. Hint of pepper spice in the background. A great wine of its type. Rating: 97/86

    Joseph Phelps 1996 "Napa" Insignia ($95) I don't mean to damn with faint praise, because this is a truly grand wine, but I also must tell you that it is not the equal of the two spectacular vintages which preceded it. This beautifully structured Meritage-style red features very ripe red plum and cassis fruit and a touch of pleasantly bitter astringency and pliable tannins for long life. Rating: 92/84

    The fancy and fancy-priced wines out of the way, here's a trio of Best Buys from Phelps:

BEST BUY
WHITE WINE OF THE WEEK

    Vin Du Mistral 1997 "Pastiche Blanc" ($10) Vin Du Mistral is Phelps' label for Rhone-style wines. This delicious number is very floral with tropical notes...peach skin, papaya and guava...but with a bone dry perception. It's a blend of Viognier, Chardonnay, Gewurztraminer and Marsanne. A tasty change of pace wine to accompany Asian and spicy cuisines. Rating: 90/96

BEST BUY
RED WINE OF THE WEEK

    Vin Du Mistral 1997 Pastiche Red ($10) Wonderful wine! Terrific value! A blend of 45 percent Grenache, 30 percent of Mourvedre, with the balance going to Syrah, Carignane, Pinot Noir and Alicante Bouschet. Gorgeous, totally accessible red with mostly plum flavors, a little spice, anise and smoke. Will take a light chill; the perfect summer cookout wine. Rating: 94/100

BEST BUY
PINK WINE OF THE WEEK

    Joseph Phelps 1998 Grenache Rose ($12.50) Totally delicious rose wine. Gorgeous strawberry juice color. The flavor is mostly strawberry too, with just a hint of cherry. Finish is bone dry, making it an ideal companion to so many summertime foods. There is so much fruit that sweetness is implied where none exists. Chill it! Quaff it! Rating: 94/90

    Joseph Phelps wines have good national availability, but mostly through wine specialty shops and restaurants. For further information: (707) 963-2745 or jpvwines@aol.com or www.jpvwines.com

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Wines are scored using a unique 100 point system. First number rates quality; second number rates value.