One of the great pleasures in reviewing wine over a long period of time is observing wines and wineries get better over the years. When improvement is dramatic there's usually more than one reason why.

    It could be a new winemaker, or an old winemaker using new techniques. It may be youthful vineyards becoming more mature, or perhaps just improved viticultural practices. It could mean new or better cooperage being purchased. It could surely be several of these factors combined.

    At Lockwood, the 2000 acre estate vineyard in Monterey County, much of the credit must go to improved viticultural practices, but some credit must also be given to winemaker Steve Pessagno.

    It was only last year that I tasted the entire Lockwood line and gave the wines good solid scores in the 80s and 90s for quality. A few of the wines warranted raves.

    Several of the varieties have improved dramatically in the next vintage, picking up several additional points in their quality scores, while maintaining the same moderate price levels. And the great thing about Lockwood is it is primarily a vineyard operation with most of the grapes it grows sold to other vintners. That means that Pessagno can make lots more wine when folks discover just how good it is.

    Lockwood 1997 Pinot Blanc ($13.50) The change of pace wine for Chardonnay lovers. A little more lithe, delicate and graceful than Chardonnay. Melony fruit is forward and juicy and there are the pleasant oak notes most of us expect from "White Burgundy" style wines. Rating: 90/88

    Lockwood 1997 Chardonnay ($16) One of the Lockwood wines that took a dramatic leap forward. Rich and toasty, with flavors of ripe apple and some mild tropical notes. Nicely oaked, showing vanillin and butterscotch. Rating: 92/89

    Lockwood 1996 Merlot ($18) Bigger than your average Merlot. Classic black cherry fruit with a little cassis. Very mouthfilling, round and satisfying, and worthy of a few years in the cellar. Rating: 92/89

    Lockwood 1996 Syrah ($15) Big, ripe, boysenberry and plum fruit. Almost chewable, but with no harsh tannins. Rating: 92/90

BEST BUY
RED WINE OF THE WEEK

    Lockwood 1996 Cabernet Sauvignon ($16) This is "Kick-ass Cabernet!" Huge! Mouthfilling! Intense! Concentrated! Highly extracted! Blackberry, cassis and a little dark plum. A  firm spine that will see it age for a decade or more, but without an edge of harshness. Find this one discounted or on sale and you'll have a real steal. Rating: 94/96

    Lockwood wines have good national distribution and you can call the winery for specific retailer information at: (831) 642-9200. And there's a really informative website at: www.lockwood-wine.com, though it is due for updating on available vintages.

BEST BUY
WHITE WINE OF THE WEEK

    Louis Martini 1998 "Russian River" Gewurztraminer ($12) Gorgeous aromatics of spice, lichee and rose oil. Big fruit flavors are more lichee, plus grapefruit, with rose petal and a little orange blossom. The wine is totally, bone dry, but the fruit gives a false impression of sweetness. Consistently one of the two or three best wines of its type in California, and a great companion to a wide range of foods...many of them Asian and many of them spicy. Will hold up to that New Orleans Cajun stuff too. Rating: 96/94

   

OLD ITALIAN 

When American wineries have been around for a hundred years or so, it's a really big deal. In Europe, that qualifies as a new enterprise.

    Castello D'Albola in the heart of the Chianti district dates back to the 11th century, where wine has been made commercially since at least the 15th century. Through its history, the property has been connected to some of the most famous names of Tuscany, names such as de Midici and Pazzi, names involved in the politics and intrigue of ancient Florence. These days the castle and its winery are owned by the family Zonin.

    D'Albola's limited production is nationally marketed in the U.S. by giant Seagram Wine Co., so you should be able to find them at least in specialty shops wherever you live.

    Castello d'Albola 1997 Chianti Classico ($12) Call it a "Best Buy." Berry and pleasantly sour cherry fruit, with earthy, smoky, dying rose complexity. Appealingly tart, this is a really grand food companion. It will cut through garlic, tomato sauce, meat and cheese. Rating: 88/92

    Castello d'Albola 1995 Chianti Classico Riserva ($20) Very similar bouquet and flavor to its younger sibling, but more intense, more mouthfilling, and rounder and less tart. It should be matched with more sophisticated fare, with more refined, less aggressive seasonings. It will love all red meats, but especially lamb and venison. Rating: 91/90

    Castello D'Albola 1995 "Acciaiolo" ($40) This lovely wine is named for another of the families which once owned the estate, the weapon makers to the de Midicis. Stylistically, it is what is called a "Super-Tuscan." It blends the best local red, Sangiovese, with the classic red variety of Bordeaux (now adopted by the entire world), Cabernet Sauvignon. This wine also fits what is referred to as an "international" style. Tasted blind, one would know it was very fine wine, but there is nothing about it that says Tuscany, or even Italy. It could just as well have come from premium vineyards in California, France or Australia. It is 60 percent Sangiovese and 40 percent Cabernet Sauvignon. The fruit was harvested very ripe, had a long, slow fermentation in rotary tanks and then was aged for 14 months in new French oak barrels. The end result combines the lean tart structure of Chianti with the rich, powerful berry, plum and green olive qualities of Cabernet. Enjoyable now, it should age beautifully. Rating: 93/84

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Wines are scored using a unique 100 point system. First number rates quality; second number rates value.