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+--- Thread: Northern Italy (/thread-7796.html)
- likesred - 05-21-2002
We're going to Milan and who knows where in northern Italy for 10 days in July. Any suggesstions on cool or fun (or both) places to stay and wineries to visit in Piedmont, Liguria (including the Riviera) and Parma areas? Thanks in advance.
LR
- Innkeeper - 05-21-2002
Wineries in Italy, as in the rest of Europe, are not like American ones where you can just drop into the tasting room, and frequently get a tour while you are at it. Some do allow this, but you have to set it up in advance. Hotels can help with this. It is a better strategy to go to the villages where specific wines are made, and eat in a local restaurant while drinking the local wines. Nearest to Milan are the lesser nebbiolo communes of Gattinara, Spanna, Ghemme, and Carema. These are usually more approachable than the better known Barolo and Barbareco. Throughout Piedmont, local barberas and dolcettos are available.
Liguria is not a major wine region and the principal wines there are white, Mr Likesred. They are Vermentino (I love it) and Cinqueterre. The reason for the emphasis on white wine is that they eat a lot of fish there. If you do find yourself with a red wine demanding dish in front of you, just say rosso. This works everywhere in Italy. Order food, and say rosso or bianco.
Parma offers a better selection of reds than Liguria, but the whites are not as good. It is the home of Lambrusco and the best ones are far, far superior to Reunite. They have a sangiovese there called Sangiovese di Romagna. Also look for cabernet sauvignon from Colli Bolognesi. There is a whole line of whites from the same region made from trebbiano, riesling, chardonnay, and sauvigonon blanc. Again, the best plan is to find a restaurant, order your food, and say rosso or bianco.
[This message has been edited by Innkeeper (edited 05-22-2002).]
- likesred - 05-21-2002
Innkeeper, you're tremendous! Thanks for all the info. OK, so I like red, sure, but I also like those New Zealand Sauvignon Blancs, and their citrus, non-oaky tastes. How would you characterize the Vermentino that you praise?
Here's the tentative plan (over ten days): make a sort of circle by car from Milan counter-clockwise through Alba to Genoa, Portofino/Cinqueterre, then to Emilia-Romagna (Piacenza?), maybe a lake, then back to Milan. Too ambitious? Workable? Are the towns you mentioned (like Gattinara) also good places to stay for a couple of days to relax and enjoy the countryside, or should we drive there, visit and stay somewhere else?
- Innkeeper - 05-21-2002
Vermentino is right now my favorite white after riesling. It is a big, brawny, wine without a trace of oak. I have a recipe posted somewhere around here for a cream and mushroom sauced Italian chicken breast that I created just to go with a Sardinian Vermentino.
Your route sounds doable and exciting. Those four little nebbiolo producing towns are all within a couple of hours of Milan, so day trips are possible. Or you might want to set up in one of them for a night or two, and take them all in on your day on the ground. Too bad, I can't come.
- scimmiatinit - 05-22-2002
Dear friend,
I want to suggest You to try some more interesting wines when You will travel around Piemonte & Liguria.
In Liguria You can look out for a "special" sweet wine from very small production (...and expensive for this reason). Its name is SCIACCHETRA' and I can ensure You it's an experience worth of.
An other interesting white is Cinque Terre from Pigato grapes. For reds You can search for a Rossese di Dolceacqua, it won't cost You a fortune!
I want to say also that Gattinara, Ghemme and other denominations introduced by our friend the innerkeeper are obtained by a particular kind of Nebbiolo ( named Spanna and so Spann(?) is not a place or whatever...)mixed with other small % of other grapes varieties such as Bonarda novarese, Vespolina, ...
This Nebbiolo is very different from the other kinds of Nebbiolo which origin (without any other added varieties) Barolo and Barbaresco. So what I want to say is.. if You want to try some Gattinara or Ghemme You are welcome but You cannot miss a real Barolo or Barbaresco (it will cost You, anyway, much more less than the States) or a Langhe Nebbiolo that, at least, belongs to the same family... In Piemonte You will also have chances to find very original whites such as Gavi (from Cortese grapes), Favorita and Timorasso... some sweet sparkling aromatic wines such as Moscato d'Asti (white) and Brachetto (red)... and last but not least some intersting more easy and nice reds such as Barbera , Dolcetto and Grignolino.
Parma will not be a paradise for wine lovers but of course it will be for exellent food.
Anyway there are some intersting producers of red wine but it will take too long to write down all the names and thei wines, anyway ask for Lambrusco, Sangiovese and Cabernet, and Merlot but also some white production like the dessert wine Albana is very interesting as well.
If You want to know some more specific details do not esitate to contact
Ciao Fabio
- JohnG - 05-23-2002
Likesred,
Sounds like you've got a great trip ahead of you. I'm envious!
From my perspective, you'll be pushing pretty hard to experience all of those places in 10 days. The best thing about Italy, I think, is being able to slow down and soak in the local color. Another approach might be to identify a couple of "home bases" where you'd set up shop for 3 or 4 days. You can then make short day trips to different communities in the surrounding area.
I can highly recommend Cinque Terre for a stay. It's a bit isolated geographically, but it is a beautiful, peaceful, and absolutely charming area. It may not be the best choice for trying a lot of different wines, but it's awfully good for the soul.
Anyway, that's my two cents. Enjoy your trip!
- jock - 05-23-2002
Welcome Fabio
Your post was teriffic. Very informative. Please visit and post often.
Jock
[This message has been edited by jock (edited 05-23-2002).]