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Is merlot really passe?? - Printable Version

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- dandy_don - 05-08-2005

I had an excellent dinner this weekend at a 5-star restaurant. My entrée was a wonderful rack of lamb. I ordered a 2001 Ruthorford Hill Merlot. It was the only merlot offered by the glass. I chose it because I had visited the winery last fall and always like to order from places I have been. I thought it was excellent.

Another couple was dining at the next table. Being a little nosey when they ordered their wine, I overheard the gentleman order a ’95 Bordeux and the lady a cab of some kind. Apparently he didn’t like the Bordeux because the waiter ( a different waiter than ours) came back and agreed their was too much sediment and offered to bring a different wine. The guy suggested “merlot”. The waiter’s response was that the merlot was awful and brought a pinot noir instead.

I thought this interesting as I was enjoying that “awful” merlot at the next table! Do I not know good wine from bad or did that waiter get his wine info from the movie “Sideways”?


- Innkeeper - 05-08-2005

The most important rule, repeat the most important rule is is you like it, that is all that matters. Merlot has played a very important role in the development of wine drinkers on this continent. After the 60 Minutes segement on the "French Paradox" several years ago, people who had been drinking white wine or no wine rushed out to get some red wine. Since the most prevelent red wine at the time was Cabernet Sauvignon made in what you might call an uncompromising style, many of these folks panicked and said "ugh." Along come Merlot to the rescue. For a while restaurants could only get any Merlot on tight allocation.

Since then the world has been flooded with wonderful red wines from the South of France, Italy, Spain, Portugal, Australia, Argentina, Chile, and South Africa. The choice, now, is almost endless.

Where does Merlot fit into all this? Well some of them fit in just fine. These include the traditional ones from the East Bank of the Garronne, those from the Northeast Corner of Italy, and some selected ones from the New World including California, Washington State, and Australia.

However, the vast sea of Merlot out there right now is just plums or plums and oak, and as soft as oatmeal.


- Thraz - 05-08-2005

Merlot has been taking an undeserved beating lately. Sure there is bad merlot - as there is bad pinot noir and bad everything else. But some of the legendary wines of the world are merlot-based. They include Chateau Petrus and... Chateau Cheval Blanc. This last one is a St. Emilion, from the Bordeaux region. St. Emilion is one of two subregions of Bordeaux (Pomerol being the other one - Petrus is a Pomerol) whose wines use merlot as a primary grape in their mixes. Chateau Cheval Blanc's other distinction is that it is the prized bottle of the same character in Sideways that disses merlot in an earlier scene (the same bottle he drinks in the fast food joint at the end of the movie).

I have to think that this merlot schizophrenia in the movie was intentional - sort of a message about the stupidity of generalizations in wine as in everything else, but I guess only the negative part stuck, unfortunately. In any event, the short of it is that if you like some merlots, keep going - the waiter who thinks merlot is passe because of a line in a movie is probably just easily impressed.


- wondersofwine - 05-09-2005

I think the waiter was terribly inappropriate to substitute his own judgment for that of the patron who suggested Merlot. I love Pinot Noir but if the guy was having steak or prime rib or such, Merlot would probably be a better choice than Pinot Noir.
On several occasions recently I have refused a substitute wine that the restaurant staff poured when the requested wine was not available. They made the assumption that one French Chardonnay will do as well as another or one Pinot Noir will do as well as another without asking me if the substitution was acceptable.


- winoweenie - 05-09-2005

Get 'em Girl! WW


- Innkeeper - 05-09-2005

In the June 2005 edition of “Wine & Spirits” there is an evaluation of current American Merlots. They took 221 wines tasted and forwarded by a blind tasting panel and rated 36 or a whopping 16% of them. These included 30 from California and 6 from Washington State. The ratings ranged from 83 to 94. The highest rated was the 2002 Woodward Canyon Columbia Valley Merlot ($32.50). The 83 rating went to 2002 Dynamite Vineyards North Coast Merlot ($17); and it was described thusly: “A soft, cherry-scented red, this light merlot has a brisk green edge. For a roast beef sandwich.” If that description went to one of the rated wines, can you imagine what the other 84% are like? The words “soft”, “warm”, and “gentle” are all synonyms for “flabby.” These words turn up in the descriptions of several of the rated wines. I rest my case.


- Botafogo - 05-09-2005

Well, we sell just one Merlot and it is really good but it is an Ice Wine from British Colombia and is $51 for a 375ml bottle.

Got Marzemino? Roberto


- Capocheny - 05-09-2005

Hi Dandy-Don,

Frankly, wines (like many commodities) have a maturation cycle. For example, look at men's ties; at one time, wide ties were in, now they're out. Thin ties came in to replace them and, subsequently, went out of vogue. Now, ties of middle width are in style.

And, remember, Chardonnays were all the rave a few years ago (especially big, overly oaked Chards!) Now, pinot gries and sauvignon blancs, in general, are in favor and Chards are frowned on (even those non-oaked ones.) [This is a generalization, of course! [img]http://www.wines.com/ubb2/smile.gif[/img]]

But, like the ties in my example above... guess what? They come in for awhile, go out for awhile... only to return once again. Sort of like Freddie Kreuger! [img]http://www.wines.com/ubb2/smile.gif[/img]

Yes, merlots are not "in vogue" at the moment (especially since the movie, "Sideways") but I think that people will always consume it... just like Chardonnay.

And, one last thing... remember that scene in the movie, "Sideways" where the wine geek says he'd never drink merlot? Well, it seems to me that his favorite bottle of wine was a 61 Cheval Blanc, which, incidentally, contains a high percentage of merlot! [img]http://www.wines.com/ubb2/smile.gif[/img] [img]http://www.wines.com/ubb2/smile.gif[/img]

WOW,

Well put.. I'm in full agreement with your comment about the waiter. Frankly, for a 5-Star restaurant, he sounds like he wasn't all that well-versed in the "art of fine wines." I would have thought that a Bordeaux, especially a 10-year old Bordeaux, would have been decanted... or, at least, he would have asked if the diners wanted to have it decanted.) And, sediments, although unsightly, do not harm the wine nor does it tend to alter the taste of that wine.

And, you're quite correct, a Merlot would have gone much better with a piece of prime rib or steak (if that's what his main course was.) Now, if the timing would have been around Thanksgiving and his main course was turkey... [img]http://www.wines.com/ubb2/smile.gif[/img]

Lastly, I also agree that not all pinots are the same. Nor, are all cabs the same.... or merlots for that matter. [img]http://www.wines.com/ubb2/smile.gif[/img]

Roberto,

"... we sell just one Merlot and it is really good but it is an Ice Wine from British Colombia and is $51 for a 375ml bottle."

I'm a bit confused by your statement. [img]http://www.wines.com/ubb2/smile.gif[/img]

Cheers


- Botafogo - 05-10-2005

What is confusing?

We sell ONE Merlot.

It is really good.

It is an Ice Wine from British Columbia (made out of Merlot).

It costs $51.00 per 375ml.

Just the facts ma'am, Roberto


- Capocheny - 05-10-2005

Roberto,

My apologies... a merlot-based ice wine!

I must have been asleep at the keyboard when I read your posting! [img]http://www.wines.com/ubb2/smile.gif[/img]

Cheers


- Kcwhippet - 05-10-2005

My son gave us a 2002 Duckhorn Napa Valley Merlot for Christmas (among others). I've been told this is one to let sit for awhile.


- winoweenie - 05-10-2005

Dandy whom-so-ebberly says Merlots are Passe haven't had some of the super bottlings from my ole drinkin' buddy Dangerous Dan Duckhorn. Have posted on many of the great Three Palms bottlings over the years and have a passel of his 01s and 02 Merlots in the cellar. All 3 of his vineyard designations (Napa, Three Palms, & Napa Estate), tho a little pricy, are absolutely outstanding wines that will give the patient collector a ton of rewards. WW