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Holy Houses of Pinot Noir - Printable Version

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- Don Muraca - 09-13-1999

Hi Folks,

I'm new to the list. My interest in and appreciation for wine exploded over the summer, and I can't seem to read enough about it. Just got back from 5 days in Sonoma. What a blast....I highly recommend it to anyone who loves wine...planned on going to Napa, but Sonoma was just too incredible. Long intro...sorry....Anyway, my guess is that some of you on this list have access to or have tried Pinots from Williams-Selyem, Rochioli or Gary Farrell. Since it's nearly impossible to find these in most wine shops (I"m in Boston and haven't found one yet) I'm wondering if people think they're as good as advertised, or over-hyped. Also, any suggestions of good Pinots would be most welcome. Some of my favorites are Saintsbury, Davis Bynum, Porter Creek and Cambria (K-J I think). Oops, one more thing....I received as a gift two bottles of Romanee-Conti, St Vivant and Echesaux (sp?), vintage 1985. How much longer can these age? (please tell me to drink them now so I have an excuse to open them [img]http://www.wines.com/ubb/wink.gif[/img]

Many thanks, Don


- Jason - 09-13-1999

These names are the big guns, but there is quality elsewhere. The wines you mention won't really be around in retail - try restaraunts. The whole '97 vintage is really good for Pinot. Try Iron Horse and Miguel Torres which are the only two estates in Green Valley of Sonoma. Both are great and the Iron Horse is relativley cheap for killer Pinot.
Then '85 Burgundies should still have some good years on them. This was a great year from the elite Grand Cru land. Hold on if you can, if not crack 'em for the millenium.


- Randy Caparoso - 09-13-1999

Don, you're obviously our kind of man. You have good taste, and great, great friends. You can buy a lot of wonderful California Pinot Noir for the price of one of those Domaine de la Romanee Conti bottlings.

A quick overview for burgeoning Pinot lovers:

1. Deserving of its reputation, the Russian River Valley is currently tops in Sonoma; making broad, smoky-spiced, opulently round and layered styles that are a also little aggressive by, say, classic French standards (so those who prefer a delicate, "feminine" style of Pinot Noir may not be so enthralled). On top of the wineries you and Jason cited (Green Valley pretty much runs contiguous with the more gravelly, hilltop-ish Russian River area), you might also look into the De Loach "OFS" and Keegan bottlings for further tastes.

2. Carneros -- which overlaps both Sonoma and Napa counties -- is probably the second most important Pinot Noir region in Northern California right now, and great stuff has been coming out of there since the late '70s. Pinots from there tend to be a tad less generous and less spicy (in the smoky/pepperminty sense) than those of the Russian River, but are still velvety smooth, lush, and vibrant (black and red cherry qualities predominating). The "classics" include those of Acacia, Carneros Creek, and Etude; and a current personal favorite for me is the Cuvaison "Eris" (positively bright and juicy).

3. The newest, exciting area in Sonoma is what they call "Sonoma Coast" -- an even cooler region with spare, steep hillside vineyards that give very fine, silky, delicate yet powerfully spiced (peppermint veering into ginger, soy and white pepper) qualities. The Hirsch Vineyard, for instance, is being mined for a number of outstanding bottlings by wineries like Littorai, Siduri, and Whitcraft. W.H. Smith has its Hellenthal plantings, and Flowers is creating some waves of its own. These are all very exciting, cutting-edge, albeit rare and coveted, growths.

4. Finally, there are those who believe that the best Pinot Noirs in the U.S. actually come from California's Central Coast (opulent, yet perfectly scaled and elegant styles) and Oregon's Willamette Valley (check the Pinot Noir and Northwest threads of the wineboard for constant updates). One taste of, say, an Au Bon Climat "La Bauge Au-Dessus" (from Santa Barbara's Santa Maria Valley), a Babcock "Grand Cuvee" (Santa Barbara's Santa Ynez Valley), a Talley "Arroyo Grande Valley" (San Luis Obispo), and any "reserve" bottling by Oregon's Ponzi, Rex Hill, Cristom, Chehalem, Bethel Heights, or Erath might very well convince you of that. These regions make "complete" Pinot Noirs -- combining power with elegance, intensity with finesse and grace -- that now rival the finest from France's hallowed Cote de Nuits.

So welcome to the legion of Pinot lovers, where there is always something new, or even something old, to discover, and revel, and roll around the floor laughing and trolling with delight!

[This message has been edited by Randy Caparoso (edited 09-13-99).]


- CSUFvintner - 09-13-1999

May I add my two-cents worth and just say thanks to Jason for noting the Iron Horse? I did my winemaking internship there in '97. Not only was it an awesome harvest, but one of the best educations a winemaking hopeful could ask for ... I am proud to say that I had a part, however small, in producing some of those wonderful wines! enjoy!


- Jason - 09-14-1999

The folks at Iron Horse really are a class act. I have had the chance to meet several of the family members and they are very nice people. They are known for their great bubbles, but the still wines are a great secret.


- Jerry D Mead - 09-15-1999

There's a book available that you might find of interest titled: PINOT MOIR: A Reference Guide to California and Oregon Pinot Noir ($25).

It is not a book of reviews, but rather an assembling of information from the wineries about their wines, how they are made, priced, etc.

If you can't find it at a local book store it's available from Wine Trader Book Services at list price but only a $2.50 shipping charge and no sales tax unless you live in NV