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+--- Thread: A Riojan debate (/thread-10266.html)
- jasmudger - 10-14-2004
I read (decanter magazine i think) that there is still an ongoing debarkle over the actual stance of Rioja. The bottom line of the debate was 'is Rioja quantity (these days) not quality?'
I would of shrugged this off, and tried to.... unfortunately over a bitter difficult effort by Faustino, their number 7. I know you guys will say you can get great Rioja and poor Rioja but I'm starting to think (& taste) that the latter is becoming more dominant.
I was in La Rioja only a month ago, and, obviously the wine was splendid. But export is another story - and I'm seeing more and more tinto and vino joven on our shelves that just dont cut the mustard like Faustino 7. Are the scales tipping Rioja to quantity?
Jim
- Thomas - 10-14-2004
Well jasmudger, you are going to love this answer.
It's California's and Australia's fault, with a lot of help from wine gurus and their ratings.
Just like Tuscany before it, Rioja is going for what they believe is the "international market" for wine on the upper end--big, chewy, extracted, oaky stuff. That style was led by California and Australia and is among the top styles to get the press.
And then, there is the other side, now being led by Australia--large volume, oak chipped, on the sweet side for the rest of us unwashed masses.
A good terrior-driven Rioja, or from anywhere else for that matter, was slowly getting pushed into the trash bin of history--until some enlightened importers entered the trade in the U.S. But I don't know anything about the importers in the U.K.
[This message has been edited by foodie (edited 10-14-2004).]
- dananne - 10-14-2004
I'm a fan of the old style Rioja, stuff where you taste the earth, stuff that shows the good oak aging without coming across as kindling, stuff where there is varietal purity. Some folks are still making them that way, but the "international style" is clearly gaining a hold. I can appreciate the new stuff at times, but I have to be in the mood for it and/or expect it. For instance, I expect a new world wine when I have Murrieta's Neonato, though I'm going to be pretty steamed when that type of winemaking changes their Reservas and Ygay Gran Reservas.
It's rather odd to me, also, that some producers who are straddling the line, so to speak, are keeping their Crianzas more traditional in flavor profile, but have turned their Reservas and more elite bottlings over into these huge monsters that are very atypical. Take LAN, for example. Their Crianzas are pretty traditional, though their Vina Lanciano Reserva is clearly international in influence.
I appreciate the wineries that use modern winemaking advantages to produce stuff that maintains the traditions and shows off the terroir. I'd probably put Muga in that category. Maybe someone like La Rioja Alta, too, at times.
- jasmudger - 10-15-2004
Too true dananne, La Muga is very much in that category. They have an interesting white Rioja too
- Thomas - 10-15-2004
In New York we are getting a fair amount of Spanish wines from unknowns that take me right back to the earth. But we have to search for them; the newer style is getting the press and getting too much shelf space.
- jasmudger - 10-15-2004
Tried Antigua Usanza 1995 Reserva Rioja last night after almost 2 hours of decanting - and I gotta say it was sublime! Its swaying me back to those 'earthy' well 'oak integrated' Riojas
for the meantime I'm satisfied..... until I HAVE to pick up a nasty number